Sequence all seven EagLED LEDs
Follow an array through the six shaped LEDs and the small user indicator.
Follow an array through the six shaped LEDs and the small user indicator.
Designed for the intact EagLED v1.2 with buzzer. Start with USB power; no cutting or sewing is required.
Step 1 — Prepare the intact EagLED
Use an intact black EagLED v1.2 with buzzer, a micro-USB data cable and a computer. The LEDs, button and light sensor are already connected by PCB traces. You do not need jumper wires, a breadboard, external resistors or a separate Arduino.
Keep the board uncut for this project. Place it on a dry, non-conductive surface. Leave the battery socket empty, connect USB and move the main board switch to ON. Move the separate switch beside the buzzer to OFF for quiet LED and sensor experiments.
The 3D view follows this starter program and its controls. It illustrates the mechanism; it does not execute changes made in the code editor or measure a connected board.
Step 2 — Explore the result in 3D
Press Play. Only one LED should be lit at a time, in the order USR, left eye, right eye, left star, left heart, right heart, right star. Drag to orbit, inspect a named component, and use Top or Underside to follow the real board layout.
Step 3 — Program your EagLED
The English IDE below opens with Little Bird EagLED and Arduino C++ selected. Read the English instructions beside the supplied program, then press Verify to compile it for this board.
To program your physical board, download the same sketch below and open it in Arduino IDE. Install the Little Bird AVR board package, choose Little Bird EagLED and its USB port, then Verify and Upload. Follow the EagLED setup guide if this is your first upload. Upload replaces the factory light pattern.
EagLED uses an ATmega32U4 at 8 MHz. Do not choose Uno or a 16 MHz Leonardo profile. Its USB port can change while the bootloader is active. If upload fails, check the selected port and retry after pressing the centre board’s reset button. The triangular project button is not reset. Close any browser serial connection before uploading from Arduino IDE.
Step 4 — Keep a copy of the complete program
const byte LED_PINS[] = {7, 3, 10, 0, 1, 12, 6};
const byte LED_COUNT = sizeof(LED_PINS) / sizeof(LED_PINS[0]);
const unsigned long STEP_MS = 250;
void setup() {
for (byte i = 0; i < LED_COUNT; i++) pinMode(LED_PINS[i], OUTPUT);
}
void loop() {
for (byte i = 0; i < LED_COUNT; i++) {
digitalWrite(LED_PINS[i], HIGH);
delay(STEP_MS);
digitalWrite(LED_PINS[i], LOW);
}
}
This is the same complete Arduino C++ program used by the English IDE. Copy it or download the .ino file.
Step 5 — Understand the program
LED_PINS is an array: a numbered list of actual output pins. Its first index is 0. LED_COUNT divides the array’s byte size by one entry’s byte size, giving 7. It stays correct if you add or remove an entry.
for (byte i = 0; i < LED_COUNT; i++) {
digitalWrite(LED_PINS[i], HIGH);
delay(STEP_MS);
digitalWrite(LED_PINS[i], LOW);
}The for loop starts i at 0, repeats while i is less than 7, then increments i. Turning the current LED LOW before the next iteration prevents an accumulating trail. The PWR, TX and RX indicators are not entries in this list.
Step 6 — Work through one case
| Index i | LED_PINS[i] | Physical output |
|---|---|---|
| 0 | 7 | USR |
| 1 | 3 | Left eye |
| 2 | 10 | Right eye |
| 3 | 0 | Left star |
| 4 | 1 | Left heart |
| 5 | 12 | Right heart |
| 6 | 6 | Right star |
Seven steps × 250 ms gives a 1.75 s repeating cycle. When i becomes 7, the inner loop ends; the next loop() starts again at index 0.
Step 7 — Test it on your board
Press Play. Only one LED should be lit at a time, in the order USR, left eye, right eye, left star, left heart, right heart, right star.
Check the physical output after uploading. Successful compilation confirms syntax and board compatibility; the 3D illustration cannot confirm your board’s USB connection or electrical operation.
Step 8 — Predict, change and compare
Write down the physical order you want, then change only the order inside LED_PINS. Keep every pin exactly once and STEP_MS at 250. Predict the first three lights, upload and compare. Then independently predict what happens if you remove the LOW command.
Check your reasoning after trying it
Reordering values changes the route, not the total time. Removing LOW leaves each visited LED lit, so eventually all seven stay on. Restore LOW to recover one light at a time.
Step 9 — Find and fix a problem
The buzzer clicks: D12 also connects to the buzzer. Turn its separate switch OFF. The left LEDs behave strangely: do not start Serial1; its RX/TX use D0 and D1. USB Serial is a separate connection.
Nothing responds: check the main switch, the power indicator and a known data-capable USB cable. Confirm the EagLED board profile and USB port. If the board has already been snipped apart, its original connections are broken: follow a separate sewable wiring project before using this intact-board sketch.
Step 10 — Keep exploring
Continue through the EagLED experiments or open the full board explorer. The original EagLED schematic and manufacturing files document the pin connections.
Parts List
Required Parts (1)
Keep the board intact. Also bring a micro-USB data cable and computer. No additional sensor, LED, Arduino or breadboard is required.
x1
$34.35
In stockProject Summary
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